(UN)HOLY FUCK. MOTHER OF LONDON dot COM IS LIVE.
Unf, UNF, UNF, UNF:
QAPLA
An hour ago, the darque benevolent sartorial powerhouse known as Mildred Von launched her official Mother of London website, with a webstore containing her glorious new, never-before-available, ready-to-wear line of MoL garments. Creaking black stroppy strappy happiness. Studs and grommets and buckles. Softly eldritch curve-hugging knits and witchy tees. Go take a look. Go.
You’re still here?! GO!! Drool. Spontaneously ejaculate. Cry molten rubies. Fer serious.
Having some inkling of just how many years of blood, sweat, orgone depletion, and fiery cussin’ went into making this uncompromisingly exquisite line a reality, we here at Coilhouse could not be more happy for Milly, or for everyone lucky enough to snatch up one of her amazing pieces before they sell out.
(And they WILL sell out. Soon. So if you want ’em, go git ’em. ASAP.)
GORKON
More images after the jump. All photos by the fabulous Twink. Gorgeous model is Lacy Soto. Immaculate hair and makeup by Cazzie at Gorgeous Salon on Melrose.
LONG LIVE MOTHER OF LONDON. CONGRATS, DOOD. HEGHLU’MEH QaQ JAJVAM.
KOLOTH
KOLOTH
BETOR
KANG
April 11th, 2012 at 8:58 pm
Oh look. Things come in small, and medium.
If I never again click on another clothing store link that doesn’t give a shit about anyone over a size 6, it will be too soon. (Yes, that includes the ones that don’t give a shit about anyone over a size 12.) Sorry we fat people exist, fashion! Apologies for our ungainly bodies! How dare we think we might want to wear your stuff!
April 11th, 2012 at 9:12 pm
$47.95 shipping for a tiny shirt??? Wow.
No size chart or measurements?
Mmmm.
April 11th, 2012 at 9:13 pm
Small is good… fit is good. This brand, is good. Cory in this brand, even better :)
April 11th, 2012 at 9:17 pm
I seriously want to have a whole bunch of sex with those pictures :D
SA — I totally understand where you’re coming from (I’m a 16/18 and I would wear the FUCK out of these pieces if they came in my size), but I also know just how hard it is to get a RTW line off the ground — I do believe that a larger range of items and sizes will be available if this initial release is successful, but it takes an *enormous* investment of money, time, and putting yourself personally on the line to create an initial ready-to-wear collection like this.
I am hoping that it will be fantastically successful, AND that Milly will have a chance to make an extended size range in her pieces, because they’re amazing and, seriously, I would sell a kidney to own some of them.
But, yeah. Trust me, I get you, because I saw “small and medium” and my heart just dropped.
I don’t think that’s going to be forever, though.
April 11th, 2012 at 9:44 pm
I understand about it being tough to get a RTW collection off the ground, but instead of alienating a huge number of people, you could release a smaller collection in a larger range of sizes. I would give teeth for a MOL piece, but I’m much less likely to now.
April 11th, 2012 at 10:16 pm
Hey All,
I get where you are coming from when looking for larger sizes, but speaking from inside the industry doing a “smaller collection with a larger range of sizes” is just not feasible. It would cost as much to make one piece in S,M,L,XL as it would to produce 4 one-size pieces. In order to recoup the money that goes into production the designer has to sell a good number of all sizes. Placing all of ones investment into a single item is a huge gamble. A designers best chance for recouping his/her investment is to sell a variety, rather than a single garment.
So please try not to feel personally insulted when a designer isn’t selling in your size. Fashion designers don’t hate large people, nor are they actively trying to alienate them. There’s just a question of economics and logic to be taken into account. Maybe send an email through the store asking for larger sizes. If enough people express interest, then its much more likely to occur.
April 11th, 2012 at 10:43 pm
Oof…
I don’t even have to ask Mil; I’m 99.999% certain it was incredibly hard for her to accept not being able to offer more size variety with the launch of this venture.
I would wager that, like many indie designers, she has been forced by unavoidable financial limitations to make the difficult choice to start with fewer sizes while offering as wide an array of styles that show off her range and innovation as she can in order to appeal to certain traditionally dependable demographics that are most likely to buy up her full first run quickly. Frustrating but true: sometimes you gotta start small (literally), or not do it at all.
Thanks to good old “Lucy ‘n’ Ethel”, here, I probably couldn’t fit into most of MoL’s current RTW line, either. Trust me when I say that I am saddened and hurt that the fashion world discourages body variety/diversity. But I wholeheartedly support Mil’s initial run. If this first wave sells out, she can expand the venture to be more diverse and inclusive. And, once again, without having to ask, I’m 99.999% sure she wants to do that very much.
All that said…
Everyone’s strong feelings about this issue are entirely valid. By all means, let’s discuss. But can I ask a favor? When possible, please try to avoid sweeping, all-or-nothing damnations. Dehumanizing another person to the point where a generalization hangs ALL of one’s rage about a painful issue on them can often be a bit like multiplying zero.
Thanks, loves!
April 11th, 2012 at 11:41 pm
As somebody who has JUST (like, yesterday) taken one pattern to be digitized, graded, cut, and sewn, I do understand the frustration with inabilty to provide a huge range of sizes. For example: making any less than 50 of the particular skirt I’m doing a small run of isn’t feasible, cost wise.
I’m doing one xs, 3 small, 3 medium, and one large in a few colors. My sizes are equivalent to about size 4, size 6/8, size 10/12 and 14.
I can’t do more yet. I’m trying to maximize the number I can sell right now so that I CAN expand my size range.
Mildred JUST opened her store. Give her a minute to recoup her initial outlay, but let her know you’re interested in buying her work in your size. I’m sure she’ll listen.
Also, please understand that larger bodies carry weight in different places. Some people carry it up front, some on the sides, and some on the bootie. The patternmaking to accomodate these differences can be devilishly hard to do unless your client is there for a custom fitting. Larger sizes also use more fabric, thus making them more expensive to produce. I have a pattern drafted for larger girls, I just cannot afford to do a run of them yet.
Have patience. This isn’t walmart, this is a one woman show (aiming for higher, obviously), and it’s a LOT OF WORK.
April 12th, 2012 at 5:02 am
shipping for small business is expensive, fools! This is not like Walmart or Amazon that makes enough sales to be able to offer free shipping. The is a HIGH END fashion label, duh!!!!!!
Otherwise, beautiful, magnificent peices!!!!
April 12th, 2012 at 8:37 am
I AM BUYING ALL OF IT NOW!!!! You guys only think I’m kidding. I’ve harassed Mildred for years about when she would have a webstore…YEARS!!!!
April 12th, 2012 at 10:15 am
Everything is so gorgeous! I can’t wait until she’s able to offer larger sizes… and possibly a few faux leather pieces (pretty please?! I would not mind paying a little more. *fingers crossed*)
April 12th, 2012 at 10:42 am
First of all ~ I wish the very best to Mildred with her new website, both now and in the years to come!
It can be harder to disagree with people you really like and admire, as I do the Coilhouse team, but I have to admit, from my perspective, there are some fashion “myths” being perpetrated here. Perhaps I should do a separate blog post about them, but one is that indie businesses somehow need to build their foundation by only offering a very limited/smaller size range. Another is mentioning that Small or Medium sizes are “traditionally dependable demographics that are most likely to buy “. I have to admit in my years of being a professional designer who also creates all of their designs in house, this has simply not ever proven to be true. While I’ve created pieces for, and even had models in fashion shows, etc… ranging any where from people who are über-petite 4’9″ with waists of 22″ to people nearing 7′ tall, or those with bust & hip measurements nearing 70”, the vast majority of sales throughout the years have been to those of larger sizes. My XL range goes up ad infinitum because there is no set number as far as I’m concerned where sizes stop, and while it may be more of a challenge to adjust certain designs to accommodate extremely large or small frames, a person’s size does not impact them wanting to express themselves to their preferred aesthetic, and I believe independent designers are one of (or should be one of) the best places for these people to come as the smaller the business, the more personal that kind of attention and service can be.
O.K. Longest sentence ever, but I’ll just leave it as I’m actually in the middle of working on some fashion show pieces right now ;)
Anyway, another thing is the myth that skinny-preference always comes from designers. I for one often make my samples to sizes larger than those of “agency-represented models”, so I tend to make smaller than average pieces for them when necessary ~ which makes sense as they tend to be *smaller than average*. I’ve run into many photographers over the years who will only work with agency models, and ergo, they are then the ones perpetuating/demanding/setting the stage for the über-skinny fashion look, not the designers. As a designer, I believe it is my responsibility to stand up to this when possible and broaden the all too narrow horizons of what is “beautiful”.
I’ll cut this short for now, but I just wanted to add my two cents that it is often the smaller, independent designers who can ultimately pave the way down the road for how things are done. We are the ones who can decide which path to take as we are not yet owned by mega-powerful conglomerations dictating to us our every move. It is with this freedom that we have the opportunity to change the problems of the fashion world (for those of us that see problems within it). I for one am honoured to be in a position to do this in my own small way and I hope others will take it upon themselves to do so in whatever way they best see fit as well. Everyone ultimately has their own prerogative and I don’t know all of the reasonings behind Mil’s current sizing choices so I’m not trying to speak directly to that, but I did wish to address a few things I see being said that I simply do not agree with.
It is not so much harder to offer things in a wide range of sizes, especially when working in an independent fashion. It does not need to be prohibitively more costly, nor do I believe the failure or success of a startup depends on keeping the offered size range small. I think there are too many myths we hear enough times and start to believe in ourselves, and it’s up to us to kick those myths to the curb and say things can be different, and we can be the ones to change the status quo.
April 12th, 2012 at 10:44 am
A suggestion for Milly — since these *are* currently made-to-order, would it be possible to create patterns for larger sizes in a couple of items, like the belt-skirt and the mesh-collar/sleeve shirt, which are probably the easiest ones to size up . . . for one thing, the pieces would then be more unisex-appeal, because I don’t know too many guys with waists under 30″, but I do know (based just on responses to my enthused LJ post!) that there are quite a few people who would wear the pieces if they were available in larger sizes.
Since it wouldn’t be necessary to have dead stock sitting around, given that the pieces aren’t made until an order is in, there’s at least the chance of making some money and making some otherwise-excluded customers very happy :)
April 12th, 2012 at 11:26 am
“forced by unavoidable financial limitations to make the difficult choice to start with fewer sizes”
Isn’t it weird how indie designers never make the difficult choice to start by making XL and 2X?
I wonder why that is?
(no I don’t.)
April 12th, 2012 at 11:58 am
I have been so excited about the launch of MoL online that I set a reminder on my phone for its launch date! I’ve wanted a piece for so long. My joy was quickly diffused when I realized I couldn’t wear anything, and as I read the comments, I see I am not alone. It’s always so disappointing to find something you love in fashion, some way that you truly feel expresses your style, only to have the feelings of exclusion reinforced by lack of size options. I can’t help but feel ashamed of myself every time this happens. Honestly, I wind up wearing my sweatpants and resolve to looking like a pile of crap until I get thin enough to fit in. I’m not blaming the designer, I know they have their limitations financially when projects like these start off, but the fact remains that larger sizes are going to be the majority.
:(
April 12th, 2012 at 12:36 pm
I make custom clothing, so I get that sizing up/sizing down patterns is a time consuming pain in the ass. But I’m sad that the website has no sizing page, no definitions for small/medium, and that those are the only two sizes available.
I’m also disappointed that at 5’7″ and 115 pounds based on what I can see and guess from the pictures I won’t fit most of these items except the accessories. I would love one of the boleros, but a one size made for a gorgeously tiny model won’t fit even me (last time I bought a jacket I was a juniors large). I have small breasts (34b/c), a 30″ waist, 34″ hips, and I’m too big for these items from what I can gather.
I’m not mad at Mildred/Mother of London, but I hope that an actual size chart appears soon, and that more sizing options become available so the vast majority of humans can purchase these gorgeous designs.
April 12th, 2012 at 2:52 pm
@Kambriel: *love!!!* <3
I have to say, I've made the most ground with independent designers when I want something made to my size — if I approached someone like Lip Service, I wouldn't necessarily get much done. But smaller designers have often been willing, when asked, to draft an XL or XL+ pattern, and sometimes have started offering the size once they realize the demand is out there.
MOL's RTW line is just getting off the ground, and I applaud that effort and wish it every success.
But it also looks like, based on the comments here, *there is a market* for larger sizes in these hot, gorgeous, beautifully-crafted garments. I'm on a limited budget, and I'd SAVE for these — it's not often that I have the opportunity to acquire truly exquisite pieces made in an appropriately-fitting size — I usually have to sigh and say that the only thing in _x_ shop that will fit me is the jewelry.
I hope that, at some point, I won't have to say that about MOL :)
April 12th, 2012 at 3:08 pm
My SIZING choices have NOTHING to do with what I see as beautiful. It comes down to moving the most product at the best price that I can.
For myself, there are several reasons why I prefer to do larger sizes as custom (rather than ready made). For example: Out of the (two hundred or so) skirts I’ve made for private clients, only one has been for someone whose bootie measured over 65″. I have one other gal that is 50″ at the low hip, and another new one that’s around 70″. I can’t afford to spend money on fabric for a skirt that is less likely to properly fit the one nebulous client that magically wants the skirt in the color I’ve chosen to make it in. Contrary to the belief that big girls ONLY want to wear black, the truth is this: Black is one of my slowest selling color choices. Charcoal gray, blood red, and silver (on the other hand) FLY out of the door. I can’t afford to have things hanging around for a long time.
The other reason is that IMHO, larger bodies carry their weight in drastically different ways. This makes pattern adjustments imperative, so that the garment hangs correctly. For me, this has very little to do with society at large, defeating the patriarchy, or anything beyond that.
April 12th, 2012 at 5:03 pm
Just noticed this on the MoL Policies & Shipping page:
“If you have any concerns about purchasing an item due to sizing or anything else, feel free to contact us for advice.”
Those interested in an item in another size might want to just ~email Mil and ask~. Perhaps it’s possible to arrange it directly as a custom order to ensure any item/s you’d like will be sized proportionately. So many times people assume what is or isn’t possible, when a simple email can go a long way in clearing up any confusion or concerns. Hope this helps!
April 12th, 2012 at 10:46 pm
Just want to clarify one thing I said earlier, because it has been nagging at me ever since. This:
“in order to appeal to certain traditionally dependable demographics that are most likely to buy up her full first run quickly.”
By “traditionally dependable demographics”, I was specifically thinking/meaning Mil’s pre-existing client base, for whom she has been doing steady commissioned work for many years. (Or, somewhat more generally, the client bases of other boutique/microhouse designer who’re working under similar circumstances and within comparable parameters.) It was not my intention to make any sort of bigger, more blanket statement… though now, in painful hindsight, I can see how/why it would be taken as such. My sincere apologies for any (understandable) confusion, or any ensuing feelings of the “WAIT… WHAT? NO!” variety that my poor choice of words has caused.
April 13th, 2012 at 7:36 am
Thank you for clarifying that, Mer — I’d figured you meant something along those lines (existing client base + fetish models/etc.), but the way it was phrased was ambiguous, and it could have come across as “skinny hip young things, who of COURSE you can depend on to buy expensive Goth gear.”
(FWIW, since I know you guys and didn’t think you’d deliberately say something in a dismissive/exclusionary fashion, I read it as the first interpretation — but it made for slightly queasy reading nonetheless.)
On the plus side, at least there’s a really strong focus-group type response to this initial release — a lot of people who have the money and leisure to buy this kind of amazing, sexy, stylish clothing are NOT necessarily skinny hip young things, but we’d still like access to the gorgeous clothes that MoL has been tempting us with for all these years! :)
April 14th, 2012 at 6:45 am
I’ve been waiting for the ready to wear collection for so long now- and I like a lot of other people as very disappointed by the limited range of sizes. Hopefully this will be something tha will change over time. I’m a student with a small budget but I would be very happy to save up for a piece or two. The very high shipping is also annoying, but I can live with that.
It seems though that if these clothes are made for alternative models then they should be in a wider range of sizes anyway. A lot of alternative models aren’t agency size- which is why I love the scene so much, its very diverse. I’d like to see Mother of London- a pinnacle of alternative fashion reflect this.
April 16th, 2012 at 4:55 pm
Hey guys, FWIW, this is Mother of London’s statement re: sizing, released on their Facebook page:
“Sizing: I’ve been getting a lot of feedback requesting a sizing chart on the website, so I’ll be working on that with my webmistress over the weekend. Also, I’ve received a lot of sad faces over not offering larger items, and I want to throw it out there that we *will* be offering larger sizes (and more mens items, for that matter) before summer.
As we’re starting out with pre-sale, I felt it was prudent to keep numbers down so that we could keep wait time at a minimum. Apologies to anyone who’s been offended that we’re only offering two sizes, and I promise this is only a temporary thing.”